Hints and tips for the perfect rose to blossom...
Planting Instructions for Bare Root Roses
Leave the package in a cool, frost free place (garage, outbuilding) the rose trees will remain in good condition for up to 2-3 weeks (longer if necessary), please ensure the roots are kept moist.
Do not allow the roots to dry out. Should they be dry, immerse in water - do not soak for more than a few hours.
Prepare the ground by digging deeply and if possible incorporating bulky organic matter into the soil i.e. well rotted farmyard manure or other rotted vegetable matter.
Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots. Ensure the planting depth is correct. The union, where the shoots meet the roots, should be an inch below the soil. Plant firmly - spread the roots out and backfill, tread around the plant, ensure it is tight in the ground.
When planting Standard Roses, the knuckle, which is just above the roots
should be above soil level.
Rose Soil Sickness
Newly planted roses seldom thrive in old rose beds:
Before re-planting, in an old rose bed, it is advisable to do one of the following
- renew the soil, use an appropriate disinfectant, or apply 'Rootgrow'.
Changing the Soil:
When planting a new bed completely dig out the soil to a depth of 12 inches.
Fresh soil from another part of the garden is suitable. When planting amongst other roses, dig a large hole and re-fill with new soil.
A friendly fungus that combats the problem of 'soil sickness'. Place the rose bush in the hole and sprinkle the granules on the ends of the roots. It is very important that these granules are in direct contact with the plant roots - so ensure they do not drop through into the bottom of the hole and that they stick to the roots. They work best on the feeder roots.
One 60g sachet will be sufficient to plant 2 bushes. After application, carefully fill as normal with soil/compost. When planting container roses sprinkle the granules at the bottom of the hole and place the soil ball on them - carefully backfill as normal.
To promote root growth, incorporate a suitable planting mixture around the roots. We recommend
John Innes No.3 Compost. Alternatively, use a mixture of Peat and Bone Meal - 2 handfuls of Bone Meal mixed with a bucket of Peat -will plant 2-3 bushes.
Getting the best from your Roses
Roses are easy to grow and require very little attention. However, they are extremely rewarding and with a little additional care the results can be amazing.
After pruning top dress with Rose Fertiliser, apply again after the first flowering (some rose fertilisers recommend feeding monthly through the season) - we recommend 'Toprose' as it contains most of the necessary trace elements.
For best results we suggest regular watering, especially during dry spells - incorporate a liquid feed every 7-10 days. Try to avoid wetting the foliage late in the evening.
To promote strong healthy growth we advise "Uncle Tom's Rose Tonic". It is a natural product that not only feeds the roots but also promotes healthier growth and dramatically improves disease
resistance. Begin spraying early in the season and continue every 10-14 days. The best
conditions for spraying are when it is dull and cool. In hot sunny weather spray early
morning and late afternoon.
Dead head after flowering so that the plant's energy is conserved for producing new
Commonly asked Pruning Questions and Answers
What is pruning?
Pruning sounds "technical", but is simply cutting back the stems of the plant.
Why do roses need pruning?
We prune to remove unproductive growth and to make way for fresh new basal shoots.
Is it necessary to prune every year?
Yes the roses will benefit, they will grow stronger, better and therefore healthier.
When should I prune?
The best time to prune is immediately after winter has ended -usually end of February or early March.
Should I cut anything back in the autumn?
Yes the bushes will benefit from being shortened in the autumn, about half way back, to "tidy" them up and to prevent them being loosened in the wind.
Pruning New Planted Roses
Prune Bush Roses and Standard Roses back to 3-4 inches, Climbing Roses back to 5-6 inches.
Pruning Established Roses
Bush, Patio & Standard Roses:
Start by cutting out all the dead wood and weak growth. To make way for new growth, remove at the base any old exhausted stems that are no longer usefully productive. Prune back the remaining stems to 4-5 inches, ensuring the cut is clean and sloping.
To encourage the plant to establish a good root system prune back to 5-6 inches the first spring after planting. Climbing roses can take 18 months or longer to establish, although this timescale can be reduced by regular watering and liquid feeding. This is particularly important for climbers growing on a sheltered south orwest facing wall where the soil may dry out quite quickly.
First season's growth may only be weak and spindly and this should be removed at the base the following spring. Any strong basal growth that is produced, probably mid-late summer onwards, needs only to be shortened by 25-30% at pruning time. A rough guide is generally any stem less than a good finger thickness can be treated as weak.
When pruning after the first season any strong shoots can be trained and tied. For best results the stems should be trained laterally in a fan shape taking care not to break any shoots. This will have the effect of producing more flowers along the stems.
In subsequent years all weak growth and dead wood should be removed altogether and strong shoots reduced by 25-30%.
After three or four seasons, the original basal growths may begin to look old and woody. At this stage it is quite likely that they have ceased to become usefully productive and should be completely removed at the base in order to make way for new prolific growth.
Pruning Climbers can often be a daunting task especially when having to decide which growth to completely take out, but it should be remembered that any stems that are removed should be more than adequately replenished with fresher, stronger and more productive new growth later in the season.
Pruning a Rambler is slightly more complicated because Ramblers flower on their previous year's growth. They are best either left to ramble or, immediately after flowering, remove stems that have borne flowers, leaving the newly produced growth to flower the following year. Whatever method is used, all dead wood, weak spindly growth and old unproductive stems should be removed annually.
If required, Shrubs can be allowed to grow freely and reach their full potential, but weak and dead wood should be removed regularly, together with any old unproductive stems from the base. If growth needs to be controlled, stems can be reduced accordingly.
English Roses and Ground Cover Roses:
Both groups will benefit from pruning. First, remove all dead and weak growth together with any old unproductive stems from the base. Shorten all remaining growth by 50%.
ROOTGROW and ROOTGROW GEL
Rootgrow combats rose soil sickness and solves the rose re-plant problem A great new product for plants - especially roses. Rootgrow is a mycorrhizal - a 'friendly fungus' that when used, attaches itself to the roots and grows a second root system that not only benefits the plant during transplanting, but helps it become stronger, healthier and more vibrant. More importantly, as far as roses are concerned, it combats rose sickness. With Rootgrow, roses can be planted in existing rose beds without changing the soil - making an easy effective solution.
Rootgrow Gel 360g
The best product for bare-root roses
Just add the gel to 4 litres of water and leave for 15 minutes, add the Rootgrow granules and stir to a consistency of wallpaper paste. Dip the roses in the gel, allow to drain and plant immediately.
UNCLE TOM'S ROSE TONIC
Feeds and defends against disease
A terrific plant food that not only feeds your roses but also promotes healthier growth and dramatically improves disease resistance. It is used by professionals and recommended by the British Rose Growers Association.
Use after pruning and every week or two during the growing season for healthier, happier roses. Can be used as a drench or foliar spray.
One litre will treat approximately 100 rose bushes for a season.